Wednesday, September 25, 2013

Another Earth


While I no longer work the Capsule trade show, I did have to stop by and pay a visit to all my friends, and take a look at some of the new Spring collections, which are all conveniently collected under one roof for three days.  It was also a lovely opportunity to reconnect with some people I hadn't seen in ages, including the lovely Bjørg, who I met working another trade show a couple years back.  I immediately clicked with her aesthetic, and have incredible respect for her ability to push jewelry to its wearable limits, creating massive hollow moon handpieces, heavy metal visors, and furry browed eyeglasses, in addition to her more classic pieces of stackable rings, dainty necklaces, and stud earrings.  

This season Bjørg added a new batch of showpieces to her repertoire, including a perfectly orb shaped metal clutch, and a space-aged selection of metal cuffs, all well suited for intergalactic space travel.  There were smaller pieces too, including a set of mixed metal geometric rings, and a more subtle orb pendant necklace, for those who prefer to remain closer to the ground.  Nonetheless, given the opportunity to reach for the stars, it's hard to imagine selecting the more down to earth options.








-Tiffany

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Monday, September 23, 2013

The New Normal


While natives of the famously idiosyncratic city of Austin espouse the motto, "Keep Austin Weird," it's a bit more difficult to imagine the locals of Istanbul adopting the same mantra for their city.  Nonetheless, Turkish designer Hande Cokrank seems to have taken the job upon herself with her collection Maid In Love.  For Spring 2014, she presents the "Ship of Weirdos" collection, inspired by an imagined meeting of weirdos trapped on a small ship together, where abnormal is the new normal.  The cast of characters include a teddy bear wearing KISS facepaint, a forlorn looking giant bunny rabbit, and a family of flying eyeballs, all hand drawn by Hande herself, and incorporated into the season's prints.  The trippy and sometimes downright hallucinogenic results have prompted people to ask Hande if she designs while high, which seems to puzzle her; apparently these weirdos are merely conjured from a very active imagination, no substances required.  Maybe the rest of us will follow her irreverent lead and her "life is too short to wear boring clothes" philosophy.  After all, the flying eyeball print dress should be on everyone's wishlist for spring.

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-Tiffany

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Thursday, September 19, 2013

True North

Ann-Sofie Back

On Monday night, the ever supportive Consulate General of Finland and Sweden teamed up with our friends at International Playground for the second installation of Northern Exposure, rounding up some of Scandinavia's foremost industry talents, and introducing them to an American audience.  Since I haven't been back to (i.e. avoided) my second home of Stockholm for the past year, it was great to see what some of my favorite designers have been up to.  Highlights included Ann-Sofie Back's heart-palpitation inducing structural leather motorcycle jacket, and Rodebjer's sequined skirt that shimmered like a beetle wing (more photos of the collection to come).  The Swedes are familiar territory, but I was also introduced to some fantastic Finns. I'm particularly looking forward to seeing more deconstructed and dishabille work from ensaemble, which reminded me of my favorite Finn of all, Aapo.

Ann-Sofie Back

Rodebjer

Rodebjer

Ensaemble

Siloa & Mook
-Tiffany

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Wednesday, September 18, 2013

Math Wiz


Each season, I always wonder what my friend Becca McCharen can possible do next to top herself. While Chromat started with fantastical caged garments, over the past couple of years, it has evolved into a full-fledged swim line, accompanied by plenty of music-video ready garments, all based on the original geometric structures and lines that served as the foundation of the first collection.  Nonetheless, for Spring 2014, Becca managed to out-do herself again, collaborating with the metalsmith next door to create seriously sick medieval-modern metal cages.  While the outrageous hand constructed pieces might be out of reach for the average girl on a budget, Becca presented plenty of other fun, sporty options.  Inspired by mathletes, Becca created clothes that fused the streamlined, sexy, and functional elements of sportswear with the strange math and calculated construction masterminded by a woman who clearly once studied to be an architect.  I'm not quite sure if Becca is actually an athlete herself, but after viewing the show, I couldn't help cheering from the sidelines.  GET IT GIRL.











-Tiffany

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Thursday, September 12, 2013

Seismic Shifts


While some designers dig from the past, and others look towards the future, Chris Habana did a bit of both when creating his Spring 2014 collection.  The geometric and linear metal pieces were inspired by seismic readings, as well as the undulating lines of the album art for Joy Division's Unknown pleasures album, hinting at the current shift towards 3D printing and CAD.  These sleek pieces were counterbalanced with cast bits of bone and intense body adornments that evoked a sense of tribalism, and reminded me of the precious metal jewels of the Incan human sacrifice mummies, who were plied with cocaine and adorned with talismans before being put to their ceremonious deaths.  Fused together, the disparate elements hint at the unknown, past, present, and future.












-Tiffany

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Wednesday, September 11, 2013

Color Club


Designer Oskar Metsavaht always draws inspiration from the bustling metropolises and beautiful nature of his native country, Brazil, and for the Osklen Spring 2014 collection, he brought a bit of the heat of Rio de Janeiro to the tents of Lincoln Center.  It was 97 degrees outside and oppressively humid, but the models were dressed appropriately.  One group of models were layered in a rainbow assortment of transparent crepe tunics and dresses that were perfect for throwing over a swim suit or for a desultory night out.  Others donned translucent dresses and tops adorned with printed palm trees, or rhinestone embellished silk tops which also bore a more subtle palm motif.  Even though summer is winding down stateside, it seems like it's always right around the corner in Rio.









-Tiffany

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