Friday, August 27, 2010

Precocious Debut

My favorite piece of the collection, the gloved gold-wire fabric dress.

While I saw plenty of shows at Stockholm Fashion Week, the first one I want to write about is the last one that I actually saw. I'm so far behind time wise, chronology doesn't really matter at this point. In terms of importance, Gabriella Loeb's show was certainly the highlight of my week, mainly because Gabi is one of my closest friends. I might have mentioned it before, but Gabi accompanied me on my first trip to Stockholm a few years ago, and ended up meeting and marrying one of Jimmy's best friends. While we've both ended up doing our fair share of flying back and forth between New York and Stockholm, she's landed in Sweden rather permanently. And while we both find ourselves complaining about how boring Stockholm is, the lack of distractions has served her rather well, as she's been able to give her undivided attention to starting her own line.

For Gabi's first collection, she presented five couture dresses that demonstrate her love for minute details, intense hand-stitching, and laborious craftsmanship. While each piece has an avant-garde edge in their design details, they still reflect her background in traditional high-end dress making. Gabi used to work making patterns at Dennis Basso, and she's certainly one of the most skilled seamstresses I've ever met (along with her doll making counterpart, bestie, and fellow Basso-alum, Andrew Yang). She's entirely devoted to the process of making clothes, and many of the fabrics were hand-altered to create customized textures or patterns, with each piece taking months to create. Luckily, she had the help of our friend Aapo, who acted as her trusty intern, and picked up some incredible hand-sewing skills along the way. While the photographs I took can hardly do the work justice, I hope they at least give a sense of the details and the beautiful workmanship involved. Congratulations Gabi, I can't wait to see the next collection!

Gabi made this dress after honing her glove-making skills when she was commissioned to make three different sets of opera gloves for an advertisement.

Gabi hand-crinkled the gold-wire fabric herself

Gabi created the checkered pattern of the woven fabric by individually pulling the strings out one by one.

A cocktail dress with vintage feather trim

Gabi's been building on her asymmetrical ruching applications, which appear in many of her other pieces, and in her artwork

While the pictures hardly do justice, this cropped jacket with an asymmetrical ruffle detail in the back is one of my favorites.

Gabi, wearing a hand-me-down dress from her Mom, Comme des Garcon boots, and a Moschino belt.


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somewherebetweenwakingandsleeping said...

stockholm boring?? really? it's one of my dream destinations, would love to go live there but for now im stuck in boring ol' sydney town

wobblinbetty said...

these dresses are all quite amazing! the gloved one is sick, love it!

Charles said...

omg! the gloved dress--I don't care that it's not practical, that part of the luxury of it all! what an extremely gloriously indulgent collection! i really love the cropped jacket too :) xx

sarah said...

my mouth is gaping, i cant get over her gloved dress. i've never seen that! the other dresses have the extravagant draping and materials, but that first dress is blowing my mind. great shots too!
xo s

Emily + Danielle said...

Loved this! Had to share it on my blog The Rack and The Ram...
Thank you, so jealous of your travels!

Maggie said...

wow the first is amazing!